Malbec is my guilty pleasure grape. I drink it when I want a “warm and fuzzy” wine — something full-bodied that will provide instant gratification without requiring any serious thought. Malbec indulges you with almost indecently ripe fruit and silky oak; its firm tannins and balancing acidity are the only things that keep it from the fruit-bomb realm.

Yet Malbec can be as complex and cerebral as Bordeaux — and, coincidentally, it hails from that region. Malbec used to be very popular here, but although it is still one of the six permitted Bordeaux grapes, it is quickly losing ground — literally. You’ll only find it blended in small quantities in a handful of wines. Malbec is particularly susceptible to frost, and after the winter of 1956, during which frost destroyed 75 per cent of Bordeaux’s Malbec plantings, the French threw up their hands and declared “Je m’en fous!” Successive years have seen more and more Malbec vines replaced with heartier varieties.

Cahors remains Malbec’s last stand in France. Located in the warmer southwest of the country, this region has proved a more enduring love for the variety. The Cahors Malbec vines suffered similar frost damage in ’56, but most were replanted. Stylistically, Cahors is usually rather rustic; in previous decades the English referred to it as “the black wine.” This moniker refers to Malbec’s inky colour and high tannin content: its legs are stained purple and its palate is astringent.

Aside from a few diehards seeking the esoteric Cahors, it is quite possible that Malbec would have been all but unknown by this point were it not for Argentina. Malbec has become Argentina’s signature grape; the country has tens of thousands of hectares under vine. Couple this with the fact that many Argentinean wines offer excellent value (especially compared to European wine) and are easily quaffed, and you can see how the grape has risen so quickly.

Like its French counterpart, Argentinean Malbec often has fairly pronounced tannins. However, unlike the French version, Malbec from the other side of the equator is much riper and fruitier. The wines are typically very rich, almost syrupy, with hallmark flavours of plums and black currant. I often detect fresh herbs, such as thyme and dill, in Malbec, along with some spice and minerality if the wine is particularly well-made. Indeed, the grape’s characteristics can be perceptibly Bordelaise, despite the amped-up fruit component. And, like the other Bordeaux varieties, Malbec benefits from oak aging — as such, many of the wines are treated to some form of oak, shown in overt traces of vanilla and toast.

Malbec made headlines in recent years due to a series of health studies. Out of the countless wines on the market, both French and Argentinean Malbec were found to have some of the highest levels of procyanidins. Procyanidins are a type of polyphenol (plant chemical) that have antioxidant properties, and are therefore very good for the heart and blood; they are also associated with decreasing the risk of cancer. Since procyanidins are derived from grape skins and seeds, the winemaker really holds the key to the wine’s health benefits: wines that have longer contact with the skins and seeds during fermentation will have more procyanidins. Since this process also tends to make the wine darker and more tannic, it follows that “the black wine” has high levels of these heart-helpful components.

Malbec’s numerous health benefits mean that it’s like a square meal in a glass, and its lush texture and ripe fruit mean that it really is a grape that’s excellent on its own. Again, I refer to it as a “warm and fuzzy” wine because it is perfect for quaffing in the evening, especially these chilly fall evenings. But, as is wine’s nature, it can also pair with food — just think in terms of foods you would eat on those chilly nights. Hearty meat dishes, especially those with gravy and mashed potatoes, are particularly good choices, as the smooth texture of these foods will complement the wine’s silky texture. The classic rule of pairing wine with food from the same region holds true: Argentineans are huge meat eaters, and Malbec pairs perfectly with barbecued meats of all species, be it beef, lamb, or even chicken. Fruitier Malbec with lots of vanilla oak character can also stand up to sweeter barbecue sauces.

Though Malbec’s mounting popularity puts it in danger of becoming just as over-hyped (and over-priced) as the en vogue Aussie Shiraz of recent years, I am confident that Malbec has greater staying power — even despite my own personal bias.