Fear not the pronunciation of this grape — Gewurztraminer (geh-VERTS-trah-mee-ner) is a mouthful, but if you shorten it to “Gewurz,” most people will still know what you are talking about. Or you could get all sassy and refer to it by its German translation: “spiced berry.” But beware, your server and friends will look at you pretty weird if you ask for a bottle of spiced berry.
Gewurztraminer is possibly the most recognizable white grape variety. Not only are the actual grapes a distinctive dark pink colour, but the intense aromatics are also a dead giveaway. Smell it once and it will make a permanent imprint in your memory banks: the wine explodes with flamboyant aromas of lychee, roses, Turkish delight, and overripe peach and nectarine; some even smell like talcum powder or scented soap. As the name indicates, there is often a spice component as well, typically ginger and cinnamon, though cloves and white pepper can also make an appearance.
In addition, the wines are often off-dry — the crazy concentration of fruit suggests sweetness, while the low acidity and high alcohol also contribute to the sugar factor. Good examples will have enough acidity to counterbalance this, but it is not uncommon for Gewurz to be as flabby as a Big Mac-munching American on a beach in Cancun.
Most of the best examples of the grape come from France’s Alsace region, where it comprises one-fifth of the region’s total plantings. Here it is known as one of the “golden four” varieties (the other three being Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Muscat). However, Gewurz also does well in certain areas of Germany and Austria. It has been planted throughout the world and though it is not hard to find an example from the United States or Canada, the best quality wines outside Alsace and Germany come from New Zealand — especially the regions of Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay.
Much of the wine literature out there will have you believe that most grape varieties are temperamental and difficult to vinify, and Gewurztraminer is no exception. (Admittedly, there is some truth to this claim. I’m sure that those unfortunate souls among us who have had their uncle’s basement “Zinfandel” will argue in favour of leaving winemaking up to the professionals.) The grapes need to be grown in a cool climate, as warm weather will rob the grapes of their acidity. Picking time is the most critical determinant of the wine’s balance: too early and the wine doesn’t have its signature flavours; too late and it is muddy, unfocused soup.
Which is why many argue that Gewurz is best made into a sweet, late-harvest wine, the likes of which are some of the most beautiful dessert wines out there. Alsace is, naturally, most famous for this style. There are two classifications: the sweet Vendange Tardive, and the even sweeter Sélection de Grains Nobles (SGN), made from grapes exposed to botrytis/noble rot. Both pack a mind-blowing wallop of flavour (think orange-ginger marmalade, honey, and toffee) and can be thick enough to pour on pancakes. But alas, they will also pack a wallop on your wallet.
Gewurztraminer’s unique combination of sweetness and spice makes it one of the very few wines that can successfully pair with spicy cuisine — for those chili-laden stirfries choose an off-dry wine that has lower alcohol (less than 13 per cent, as alcohol exaggerates heat) and higher acidity. Gewurz’s voluptuous flavours also pair well with fatty foods, such as pâté, duck, goose, and pork. Foie gras also pairs well — but only if you don’t have a conscience. (Poor little geese ...)
