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SEE Magazine: Issue #668: September 14, 2006
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FOOD & DRINK

Review
Twice as nice
Padmanadi’s friendly veggies can’t be beat
PADMANADI VEGETARIAN HOUSE
10626-97 St., ****

As we sat down in Padmanadi, the owner/proprietor/cook pretty much appeared at our table and automatically started pouring from a large glass coffee pot filled with green tea, (much in the same way Florence Jean Tackleberry on the TV show Alice would have poured coffee for a regular without asking).

As the small talk flowed and our host Mr. Kasim Kasim welcomed us again and again, I asked him what he thought was the best dish at Padmanadi Vegetarian House. Without skipping a beat he said matter-of-factly: "Chicken Curry."

"OK. So that’s how it’s gonna be. Wise guy, eh?" I thought to myself, but he reassured us that it was vegetarian, very tasty on coconut rice, and went well with the Szechwan mixed grilled veggies ($9). So we said sure, and then somehow agreed to the appetizer platter without knowing what it was (we hadn’t even looked at a menu yet). Mr. Kasim Kasim thanked us on his way to the kitchen (stopping briefly to say to us, "You’re so nice") before vanishing just as quickly as he appeared.

We’d been in the restaurant for about 50 seconds, hadn’t seen a menu, yet we were drinking green tea that we luckily would have ordered any way, agreed to an appetizer dish that we didn’t understand, and decided chicken for lunch in a vegetarian restaurant would somehow be a good idea. There seemed to be a lot of odd choices spiraling down around us... yet I was really enjoying myself.

The appetizer plate ($9) was a selection of mystery meat. Well, except that it wasn’t meat. There were various little patties of fried genuine simulated faux meat products. I had thought that Malaysian dishes were a combination of Chinese, Southeast Asian, Dutch, and Indian influences based on the important role the Malaysian archipelago played in trade back in the day. But this seemed to me to be like an appetizer plate of various Newf Steaks (fried bologna).

Nonetheless, we had a lot of fun dipping them in hot sauces anyway and made a game of guessing what meat byproduct they were trying to represent. I quite liked them to be honest, although I can’t for the life of me say why.

Mr. Kasim Kasim brought our chicken curry ($10) in short order after the appetizer, and we heaped the steaming coconut rice into our bowls before ladling the gorgeously smooth velvet curry sauce with potatoes (might have been Yarro root) and (arguably) chicken pieces over it.

One of my favourite things about the curries from Southeast Asia is the hint of caraway they often have. The licorice flavour mixed in with the spiciness of the curry in this dish and the sweetness of the rice really rounded out the taste. I often think curries are kind of flat without the caraway, but this was wonderful. It was exactly like the curries I’ve had overseas.

Even better was the mixed grill. It was a simple dish of green beans with ginger, carrots, and peanuts that had been quickly fried with a bit of soy sauce and to my mind, maybe some kechap manis (sweet Indonesian soy). The beans, which were cut into small pieces about 1.5 to 2 cm long, were crisp, crunchy and outstandingly fresh. My big complaint about going to the ubiquitous North American Asian style restaurants is that they always destroy the veggies. Not so here at the Padmanadi. They’re all about the veggies.

We paid our bill knowing we’d be back soon. Mr. Kasim Kasim waved to us on the way out and thanked us again. I’ve been in restaurants in Edmonton where they serve you garbage, overcharge you, give you terrible service, and don’t give a crap. Not Mr. Kasim Kasim. He’s the man so nice they named him twice.

He gave us a great meal, at a reasonable price, with remarkable service, and made us genuinely feel like he was thrilled that we’d come to his restaurant to share his food.

Do me a favour. Everyone who reads this should go and thank Mr. Kasim Kasim for offering us Edmontonians this fine opportunity to eat in his establishment. He’s so nice.

RUMBLINGS

Passa Tempo asked me to announces their exclusive Nicolas feuillatte champagne tasting, featuring three vivacious champagnes with food to match, which will take place on Tue, Sept 19, from 7:00 to 9:00. Tickets are $25 per person (plus GST & gratuity). Only 18 tickets will be sold. Call 909-6916 or e-mail by reply to vinobella@hotmail.com to reserve.

MONTE KRUEGER
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