IL PASTICCIO
11520 - 100 Ave., 488-9543
**** (out of five)

The graffiti-spangled walls of Il Pasticcio bespeak a room that has witnessed a lot of special occasions. Inscriptions in English, French, Italian (real and fake), Spanish, Korean, and Arabic, as well as corporate endorsements and festive wishes, etched in black marker, cover almost every available space in the restaurant. One of the pillars, incongruously festooned with sombreros, bears the most telling epigram of all; within a heart that wouldn’t look out of place on a high school binder are written the words LOVE LIVES HERE.

The secret ingredient in good Italian food is, after all love, and Il Pasticcio gives as good as it gets. Authentic? Beats me. Cheap? There are definitely cheaper joints out there. But for a dining experience that bespeaks pride, generosity and a personal touch, Il Pasticcio ranks above most of the pasta-slingers in this town.

I could go on about the comfortable atmosphere, the extensive menu (complemented by an equally extensive list of specials that included osso buco, pork tenderloin, Arctic char, red snapper and lobster ravioli) or the polite, attentive service, but let’s just confine ourselves to the meal I had, shall we?

There’s something about a puttanesca that gets me every time. It’s a dish that calls for simple ingredients but, when properly prepared, has a richness and complexity I find extremely satisfying. Puttanesca–allegedly named for the prostitutes of Naples who originated the recipe–usually involves a spicy tomato sauce well-spiked with garlic and tossed with black olives, fresh tomatoes and capers and sprinkled with parmesan cheese. Il Pasticcio’s version was served over penne and included the enhancement of mushrooms and strips of beef ($16.95). To make a meal of it, I ordered a house salad ($5.95) and a glass of the house red, a Montepulciano ($5.95).

Despite the admonition in the menu to be patient–good food, after all, takes time–the salad arrived very quickly. Usually I would find the abundance of red-wine vinaigrette lavished on the lettuce, Roma tomatoes and red onions unappealing, but there were so many juicy chunks of tomato that the dressing seemed appropriate.

The pasta arrived hot on its heels, still steaming in fact, and if the price tag seemed out of proportion with the unfancy components of a puttanesca, the fact that it would have easily served two people more than justified its cost. A vast expanse of pasta steamed before me, and my server politely wished my appetite luck.

I wouldn’t hesitate to call it perfect puttanesca: from the rich, judiciously spiced tomato sauce with just the right touch of olive oil, to the tangy black olives and juicy chunks of mushroom, to the tender strips of beef generously interspersed throughout, to the fresh penne and hints of parsley and basil, every mouthful provided something to savour. If only I had a second stomach, I could have put it all away in a sitting. But looking around, I noticed a lot of other diners were bested by the generous portions they’d been served and had to resort to doggie bags as well.

As if this weren’t enough, I was presented with the best espresso I’ve had within easy reach of my memory. Anyone can make an espresso that will have you jittering late into the night, but it takes skill to make one that complements its bite with a creaminess that lasts to the bottom of the tiny cup. I couldn’t have been more pleased.

Admittedly, the trattoria’s prices ($11 - $26 for an entree) set it in a price range many people reserve for special occasions, but if you’ve been extra-good and feel you deserve a little special treatment, Il Pasticcio will see to it you’re duly rewarded.